B. Table of Contents

– Part I – Housetraining in puppies
– Part II – Housetraining a surrendered dog or. a dog from the animal protection
– Part III – Housetraining in dogs with a migration background
– Part III – House training for senior dogs
– Part IV – Housetraining dogs in certain situations
F3. document maintenance and discussion forum
This documentation is part of the HUNDE-RING quality assurance system. Knowledge about dog behavioral biology is constantly evolving. If you are a behavioral biologist or veterinarian and have any suggestions or ideas for improvement, we would be very happy to hear from you. Please contact directly our working group HUNDE-RING guidelines im> HUNDE-RING Network.
C. INTRODUCTION
C1. OUTPUT
- the essential elements for housetraining are: sound knowledge, organization, consistent implementation
- the puppy does not know good and wrong. For him, the expensive Persian carpet is just as right as the dog run. Through consistent training and a lot of patience we will train him to be housebroken.
- Yet dogs are naturally designed not to soil their immediate storage area. We make use of this characteristic in dog training for housetraining.
- A puppy needs to be released about every 2 hours. Likewise, after every wake-up, feeding, playing games, and even after long car rides. This means for you that you have to go out with the dog. In any weather!
- As a rule of thumb, puppies under three months of age need to relieve themselves about every two hours, every three hours between three and four months of age, and about every four hours between five and six months of age.
- The time periods can then be slowly extended.
- For adult dogs, this should be at least three to four times a day.
- It should also be noted that a puppy is not born until about 16 weeks of age.t week can control his bladder and bowels.
- The aim of the training is to get the dog to do his business only at his ‘release place’.
- It is important to note that the walk should be finished only when the dog is loose, even if it takes a long time.
- But keep in mind that every dog is different, just like us humans. For some it works sooner, for others later. Always remain patient. Even with setbacks.
- Understand your dog’s housetraining as a learning process: from your dog and from you. Your dog must also learn to control its sphincter muscle. Plan on at least 8 to 12 weeks. Be prepared for setbacks – because that is normal.
- Some dogs are not housebroken until they are seven months old.
- It can also take up to a year in extreme cases until the dog is reliably housebroken.


Important! If the dog can not hold his ‘Pippi’ in the apartment, is possibly the reason for this. also an illness like for example a bladder infection before. Therefore, if in doubt, have your dog examined by a veterinarian.
C2. OVERVIEW
- There is generally no patent remedy to get a dog housebroken
- But basically we have to distinguish four very different starting situations
- Depending on the initial situation – we have to use very different strategies
- A puppy, which has already been optimally prepared for housetraining by the breeder, is to be treated completely differently than an adult dog from animal welfare, which has perhaps spent its whole life since its puppyhood in kennel keeping on concrete and smallest space – without ever being housetrained.
the puppy comes directly from the breeder and is about 8 to 12 weeks old
the dog was already house trained, we have had the dog for a long time
we get the dog as an adult animal from animal protection, from kennel keeping or second or third hand and assume that he has never been housebroken
the puppy wants to do its ‘business’ somewhere in the apartment
the dog does its business, mostly when nobody sees it, in the apartment
or: it happens simply because he cannot hold it.
the dog does its business as if it were the most normal thing in the world, somewhere in the apartment
the puppy was optimally prepared by the breeder, could z.B. to learn from the mother to be loose outside
the fact that the dog has already been housetrained once is a positive starting point
Perhaps the dog has already been with a family and indicates its need for a solution. Observe the dog closely
we need to observe what signals the dog sends before he starts to do his business
we need to find out why the dog is no longer housetrained. There may also be health problems. Possibly also signs of old age. If applicable. call in the vet.
If there are no physical medical causes, we must assume psychological reasons. What has changed? people in his environment behave differently?
we need to observe what signals the dog sends out before he starts to do his business
Make the puppy understand that its place of release is outside the apartment. In the beginning we have to take him out every 2 hours.
When the dog gets loose outside, he is praised and rewarded with treats.
If a mishap happened in the apartment, it is totally ignored to the dog.
Details see below in the text.
It must be found out what or who is the cause of this change in behavior.
Try to eliminate these causes if possible. If the original cleanliness is not restored after the causes have been eliminated, it may be necessary to continue with housetraining. start house training again from scratch: that is, go out as often as possible, observe signals, take situations into account.
Details see below in the text.
Similar to the puppy, find signals when the dog has to – and then quickly get out beforehand.
Details see below in the text.
Approach the subject as relaxed as possible. It has worked a million times before your puppy. The more stress-free you approach the whole thing, the better it will succeed. It is really only a question of time.
If you are stuck, consult an animal psychologist.
Never lose patience. not even in case of setbacks. Our dogs are clean by themselves and do not soil their storage space. Even with a street dog there is a chance to.
C3. PREPARATION FOR HOUSETRAINING
- Take time for the dog day and night in the first weeks. With puppies you must also go out at night up to every two hours. Plan for this from the beginning.
- Everything in their home is expensive and on the floor, z.B. Persian rugs, etc. you should temporarily remove.
- If you are planning to renovate your home, it is a good idea to postpone it until the housetraining is completed.
- Walk the area well before you get the dog and look for a suitable ‘walker’. In the beginning it is easier for the dog if you always take him to the same place for his business. He then very quickly associates the place with what he is supposed to do here.
- Get clothing that is suitable for any weather according to the season and is easy and extremely fast to put on
- Prepare your family and roommates – that no matter what mishap happens, the dog will not be scolded. He simply would not understand.
- Think of a password as an audible signal, which you repeat outside in a relaxed manner – before and while the dog is doing its business. Example: "MACH STINKI . MAKE STINKI . MAKE STINKI . MAKE STINKY . " It will encourage the dog over time – to do its business here and now. It signals to him as a gently accompanying audible signal: here I am correct. Here I may.
- Procure suitable cleaning agents and utensils.


C4. SELECTION OF THE FUTURE ‘BUSINESS PLACE
- Walk the possible places for your dog’s business early on before you get your new roommate
- Proximity to their home is crucial: they must be able to carry the puppy there quickly in any weather, day or night
- The place should be as undisturbed as possible
- Taboo zones are: Children’s playgrounds, sidewalks, etc.
- The dog will soon get used to this place by its own smell and will be animated already by it to its business
- Please make sure to get poop bags in which you immediately collect the ‘business’: this keeps the neighborly peace immensely
C5. PUPPY GATE AND DOG BOX
- If you cannot supervise the dog even for a short time, he must go to his protective puppy gate
- A brief distracting phone call and the dog may just then do his business
- A short walk to the front door when the doorbell rings and the dog is gnawing at the vacuum cleaner cord
- Dog crate and puppy gate have proven to be an ideal solution in this case.
- Dogs keep their immediate area, i.e. the sleeping area and closer living area clean by themselves.
- A dog crate is also ideal as a sleeping place and hiding place for the dog.
- The dog crate can be taken into the bedroom at night. This has the advantage that the dog wakes you up when he has to. Besides, you can z.B. putting your hand on the box to calm the dog down. This can build a bond and trust early on
- The puppy must be very gently accustomed to the dog crate, so that it becomes his personal nook and he feels absolutely safe and comfortable in it.
- For the dog to get used to the dog box, separate training and strict rules for the humans are necessary. The dog must not be disturbed, played with or anything else there. He has to go inside voluntarily (possibly. by treats) and also come out again when he wants to. The dog crate should never be used as a punishment.
C6. CLEANING AGENTS
- without suitable cleaning materials it does not go with the housetraining
- Cleaning products should not contain ammonia, which may only animate the dog
- Vinegar cleaners are ok and appropriate special cleaners from pet stores.
- You should clean up your dog’s mess as soon as possible after you discover it, without leaving any traces or odors
- do it without scolding and inner anger – your dog would feel it – but not understand it at all
D. MAIN PART
I.1. Initial situation
- Future puppy owners should deal with the topic of housetraining as far in advance as possible before acquiring a dog
- Check yourself BEFORE the dog acquisition well – whether you can afford all this
- Are you really ready – in the beginning also at night – every two hours – in wind, rain, storm, sleet showers, slush, 40 degrees in the shade – without grumbling to go out with the dog joyfully – and to praise him from the bottom of your heart, when he has finished his ‘business’ outside??
- If not – you should urgently check again – if now is the right time for you to take a dog out
- Equip yourself accordingly: all clothes, shoes, etc. you have to be one-armed, in the other hand you hold the puppy that just wanted to start doing its business in the apartment – so one-armed you have to be able to get dressed completely – half asleep
- Ideal clothing for one-armed dressing: Rain boots, yellow raincoats (Frisian mink)
- Recommendable acquisition: the dog box as a living cave. At night, when you are fast asleep, your little dog may be starting to wander around the house. There the one or other little business is almost pre-programmed. A dog crate near their bed helps against that. If the dog now wants to do his business at night, he will report, because dogs are by nature anxious to keep their living cave clean. The habituation to the living cave dog box must be done very gently – best with regularly hidden treats in it – with the door remaining open. The dog crate must be an absolute rest and retreat area for the dog – which must be respected by all family members. He must feel absolutely safe in there and must not be played with or even harassed by children. He must always come out on his own. He must never have the feeling of having fallen into a trap. Therefore close the door only with absolute necessity in the exceptional case.
- Recommended purchase: the puppy gate. You will not be able to keep an eye on your puppy every second – although you should be able to. Also for safety reasons: because how fast without supervision a power cable is bitten through, a toy is chewed and swallowed, . A single phone call is enough to distract you. For these critical moments helps a puppy gate.
Keep their walking equipment always ready to hand. Unexpected often comes! Sometimes even at 0:30 a.m. in heavy rain and storm and slush. And then it must be done very quickly! In one arm you will hold the restless puppy that you have just disturbed in the middle of its urgent business – while with your free hand and arm you put on your pants and coat, tie your shoelaces, put on your hat, pack your treats and poop bags, tuck your umbrella under your arm, open and lock your apartment and then, above all, you have to leave as quickly and stress-free as possible (!) reach the office of the puppy! Because your stress is transferred to the dog. The puppy associates otherwise: Pippi make is the absolute stress! So stay absolutely friendly inside and outside. Even if at 01h30 the procedure is repeated.
B1. BACKGROUND INFO: PUPPIES AT THE BREEDER
- Already at the breeder in the first weeks of life solid foundations are laid for a later housetraining
- Puppies should already learn ideally from the mother that one does not make into the own ‘nest’
- the puppies should be given as early as possible the opportunity to go with the mother to a loafing place outside of the camp area
- Puppies learn in such a way: one must hold the own couch place cleanly
- but especially for puppies born in autumn and winter, easy access to the outdoors is not so easy
- as a makeshift you can certainly offer a litter box, which is covered with newspaper
- the storage place or. the dog box thus becomes a taboo zone for excrement and urine
- this ‘taboo zone for excrement and urine’ can gradually be extended to larger and larger areas by placing the litter box further and further away from the lying area
- Ask the breeder on which surface the puppy has done its business so far
- It is ideal if the breeder has already accustomed the puppies to do their business outdoors on a natural surface such as a meadow, roadside, lawn, sand or earth – as it will also be the case later with the new mistress or master. Especially with puppies, which were born in autumn or winter, this habituation is often not the case – because the breeder rather keeps them indoors due to the weather conditions.
- A puppy that has never been on a meadow, for example, will be irritated by the unfamiliar surface when he has to do his business on grass or damp earth.
- Some puppies prefer ceramic tiles for their business – why?? Because they were used to it so from the breeder. Tiles are easy to clean by water jet.
- Some puppies completely ignore field paths and roadsides for their business – why?? Because the breeder never familiarized them with it.
B2. BACKGROUND INFO: THE PUPPY IN THE NEW HOME
- the puppy needs from the beginning its own place, its own ‘nest
- this place can be a dog box or a dog basket, always in the same place
- The puppy must be able to find a release place outside of his lying place
- Puppies learn this way: you have to keep your own nest clean
- It is also ideal to limit the puppy’s range of action at the beginning with a puppy gate. If the puppy can browse the whole apartment or house unsupervised, he will soon find a favorite place for his business
- as a workaround we can offer a litter box, which is covered with paper
- the lying place thus becomes a taboo zone for excrement and urine
- this ‘taboo zone for excrement and urine’ can gradually be extended to larger and larger areas by placing the litter box further and further away from the lying place
- Your puppy must go out every two hours. Except when he is sleeping let him continue to sleep. Take the dog out to the place where he can be relieved, and ideally use it later as an adult dog. Set the alarm clock.
- This regularity is important for the later housetraining: the puppy learns: Stinki and Pippi one makes outside in the free one.
- In the beginning, always bring the dog to the same place for his business. He will then very quickly associate this loosening place with what he is supposed to do here.
- If after some time he associates the release point – outside the home – with his urgent need to release – a big step towards housetraining is achieved.
- Also after his meal is valid: 5 to 30 minutes after eating depending on the dog he must go out.
- He must also go out after playing and waking up.
Habit and regularity are the foundations of housetraining. Go regularly with the puppy every two hours to the usual loosening place. Give him his food regularly at his usual times. After eating, waking up, playing, they additionally go to the usual release place. Everything regularly. In any weather – at any time of day or night. Praise him *mega* in a joyful voice when he finishes his business (!) has. Your dog will soon associate this loosening spot with his need to loosen up.
In order to house-train your dog, a lot of commitment on your part is necessary. At night in rain, fog and frost. Be clear – your dog has to go to the toilet just like you do! If your dog does not want to be house-trained: Stick a note in the toilet: ‘MUST MY DOG NOW, too?’
B3. BACKGROUND INFO: TRAINING THE PUPPY TO BE HOUSEBROKEN – THE INITIAL PHASE
- Watch your new roommate very closely!
- What signals does he send out when he needs to go out?
- your dog always behaves the same way before he starts his business – you have to find that out now
- If he gets restless, gets out of his berth, sniffs around, walks in circles, goes in search of a suitable pee pee spot, if he whines or whimpers these can be signs
- If the dog is just waking up after a nap, you can already put on the coat, then immediately pick him up and go to the release place.
- the same applies if you have given him his food. With a delay of 5 to 30 minutes – depending on the dog. This must be observed.
- Carry the puppy – calmly – to its release place outside of its storage place / dog crate – ideally to the place where it will be released later on
- Tip: If you carry the puppy – instead of letting it walk itself – it has no chance to relieve itself makeshift on the way
- Do this again and again, and again and again .
- In the beginning it is ideal to go to the same place over and over again. The puppy then associates the place with the event
- Puppies learn in such a way: the own camp and/or. nest must be kept clean
- the own lying place becomes a taboo zone for excrement and urine
- this ‘taboo zone for excrement and urine’ can gradually be extended to larger and larger areas by placing the cat litter box further and further away from the lying place
- Praise the dog after loosening – super mega moderately – effusively to the point of no longer going. treat included.
- Do not praise your puppy while he has not finished his ‘business’, otherwise he might break off prematurely due to the distraction.
- the dog’s solution place should be as free as possible from distractions. If everything else is much more interesting than doing the ‘business’ and he is constantly distracted, he may end up going indoors after all
- The dog may not be distracted now also by the owner with plays. Also should not run around.
- therefore be patient and wait relaxed until he has done his business
How long can a puppy stand it? The rule of thumb is: as many hours as he is months old. So a four month old puppy could stand it for four hours.
B4. BACKGROUND INFO: TRAINING YOUR PUPPY TO BE HOUSETRAINED – FOR ADVANCED LEARNERS
- If the dog still uses the cat litter box now and then, this is now gradually placed at very small intervals of quite a few centimeters further and further away from its resting place.
- The given direction is out of the room in the direction of the front door.
- This alone is an excellent release signal, if the dog is looking for the litter box: then immediately go out into the open to release it.
- And if the business once goes into litter box: it is not a leg break
- It is helpful in the beginning to take a piece of used newspaper out with you, so that the dog smells itself.
- As the puppy grows older, you can slowly increase the intervals between walks.
- Are the release signals the dog sends perfectly clear?? Are you able to constantly pick up / receive these as well?
- Some dogs go only very briefly to the balcony or apartment door. If this is overlooked, a mishap can happen
- If you recognize the release signal of your dog in the apartment, praise him immediately effusively and go immediately outside to his release place
- do it again and again like this, and again like this, and again like this .
- And until he has really loosened up
- In case of poor light, take a flashlight with you to check.
- Give the dog a very relaxed sound signal as a password, which should be more of an encouragement: z.B. "MAKE STINKI, MAKE STINKI, . " or "PULLER PULLER, PULLER PULLER, . " – so that he knows that this is the right place to do his business. Repeat this constantly as long as he does his business. Say this calmly without the slightest impatience in your voice or even a commanding tone! This will later become automatic and is not a command – but a gentle animation to get loose.
- It will take many repetitions before your dog associates the password with ‘his business’. Once you have achieved this link, in a foreign place, for example, on vacation or in a foreign city, you can really well help the dog to find a suitable place and release here.
- If you distribute the appropriate amount of food for your dog among the food rations throughout the day, plan the smallest ration for the last meal in the evening. This may make it easier for you and your four-legged friend to sleep through the night.
B5. BACKGROUND INFO: WHAT TO DO IF A MISHAP HAPPENS
- Rule no.1: remain completely calm!
- clean the place very meticulously so that your dog does not smell anything anymore. Otherwise it could become his ‘peeing place’
- Use chemical cleaners or detergents. Disinfectants that reliably eliminate odor. Otherwise the dog will go there again and again.
- Scolding and swearing makes no sense!
- If you see the dog absolutely (!) catching him in the act because he is crouching down in a typical position at that very moment – is a "NO" or sharp "PFUI in order.
- If you catch him in the act, pick him up gently and take him outside or, as a workaround, put him in the litter box. Give him the very gentle command or. the animating accompanying sentence: ‘MAKE STINKY’.
- Never punish after the fact. Your dog would simply not understand.
- This will not teach your puppy to become housebroken – but only to fearfully do his business or even to be afraid of yourself. In the worst case he learns to do his business only in such places, where he is not seen, for example behind the couch set in the living room.
- Always make yourself clear: if your dog goes into the apartment you have done something wrong. They have not been outside often enough, they have missed a signal.
- Absolutely outdated, pointless and completely to refrain is to press the nose of the puppy in his puddle of urine or feces. The puppy will not understand.
- Cleaning the ‘accident site’ should not be witnessed by the puppy if possible. It should link with its business in the apartment – nothing -. If possible, bring the puppy to its gate or box – but not as a punishment – so rather lure it there. Ideally the puppy does not realize what is happening now. When cleaning, don’t look at him, don’t point at the ‘accident site’ and of course don’t talk to him either. Important: show zero reaction towards the puppy – emotionless grooming is the order of the day.
- If the mishap happened while they were away – you must completely ignore it to the dog. remove the mishap without comment! do not scold, do not look at the dog angrily. Do not get angry! That is the lot of the puppy owner and it went to all of us in such a way.
- Do not use ammonia cleaner for cleaning, because the smell can encourage the dog to urinate.
If a mishap has happened: never punish the dog! Do not scold! Do not be angry! Stay relaxed! Punishment is a fear inducing factor for the dog. Otherwise we will achieve exactly the opposite of what we want to achieve in terms of house training.
B6. BACKGROUND INFO: SPECIAL CASES
- If your puppy insists on a certain corner in the apartment as a pee corner . put the litter box there for him
- Procure a playpen or puppy gate where the puppy can stay and be watched for signs of defecation
- Stopping the walk whenever the dog has finished its business – can lead to complete misdirection. The dog learns: whenever I have done my business, it goes back to the boring home in a flash. Some dogs learn from this to delay the walk without business forever. Once home, they then do their business in the apartment. Our dogs are often more intelligent than we are.Therefore, after the dog has done its business, always continue the tour for a reasonable distance.
- Dogs like to do their business the way they are used to – some especially on meadows, some on the side of the road, on asphalt. Some dogs that have been in the shelter for a particularly long time prefer smooth floors, ceramic tiles, concrete surfaces, etc.. Some puppies are already used to these ceramic plates, which can be easily cleaned by water jet, from the breeder as well. If there is this connection, it helps u.U. temporarily cover the ceramic plates in the house with an old carpet.
- When it became a ritual that your dog never does anything outside despite extremely long walks – but when you are back in the apartment, there immediately (!) – for this situation helps u.U. the following procedure: go back into the apartment as usual, leave the dog on a leash – and before the dog starts doing its business in the apartment – go out again immediately – and repeat the whole procedure. Until it works.
C. CASE 2: A HOUSE-TRAINED DOG BECOMES UNCLEAN AGAIN
- Future puppy owners should deal with the issue of housetraining as far in advance as possible before acquiring a dog
- Check yourself well BEFORE acquiring a dog – whether you can afford it all
- Are you really prepared – in the early days even at night – to go out with the dog every two hours – in wind, rain, storm, sleet showers, downpours, slush, 40 degrees in the shade – without grumbling joyfully – and to praise him from the bottom of your heart when he has finished his ‘business’ outside?
- If not – you should urgently check again – if now is the right time for you to get a dog
- Equip yourself accordingly: all clothing, shoes, etc. you have to be one-armed, in the other hand you hold the puppy who just wanted to start doing his business in the apartment – so one-armed you have to be able to get dressed completely – half asleep
- Ideal clothing for one-armed dressing: rain boots, yellow raincoats (Frisian mink)
Always keep their walking clothes within reach! Unexpected often comes!
D. CASE 3: WE GET A DOG THAT HAS PROBABLY NEVER BEEN HOUSE TRAINED
- Future dog owners should deal with the issue of housetraining as far in advance as possible before acquiring a dog
- You suspect that the dog you are going to get has never been housetrained before. It was probably never an apartment dog, possibly a street dog, a kennel dog or a dog that has spent its life on a chain.
- In the case of shelter dogs, lack of housetraining may have been the reason for surrender – without this being stated by the previous owners. The dog may have been an apartment dog, but never learned housetraining or learned it incorrectly.
- Check yourself well BEFORE you get a dog – if you can afford it all
- Are you really willing to deal with the issue of housetraining for possibly a very long time?
- If not – you should urgently check again – if now is the right time for you to get a dog
- In this case, the basis is an absolutely regulated daily routine, at least in the beginning
- the dog must ‘know’ that it z.B. walking the dog one hour after eating
- It is useful to feed the dog regularly at the same time every day, so as to train the intestines.
- After feeding the dog should be taken for a walk several times a day at a certain time.
- For this purpose, it is necessary to observe exactly when the dog’s need to defecate starts after eating – and to schedule the walk times accordingly.
Always keep their walking clothes within reach! Unexpected often comes!
E. HOUSETRAINING IN DOGS – CHECKLIST OF THE MOST COMMON SITUATIONS AND SIGNALS
- Every dog sends certain signals before they do their business
- Watch your dog very closely! Do not let him out of your sight!
- The signal can be a fleeting glance at the patio door. Only for a second.
- If you do not realize this signal – it is like the red of a traffic light that you do not recognize.
- This document is designed to help you systematically track your dog’s possible signals.
- Print out this document and fill in what applies to your dog.
No special situation
Applies to my dog
[ ] absolutely not true
after this signal the dog has done its business
No special situation
Meets my dog
[ ] absolutely not true
after this signal the dog has done his business
No special situation
Meets my dog
[ ] absolutely not closed
after this signal the dog did its business
No special situation
Applies to my dog
[ ] absolutely not true
after this signal the dog did its business
No special situation
Meets my dog
[ ] absolutely not
after this signal the dog did its business
No special situation
Applies to my dog
[ ] absolutely not to
after this signal the dog has done its business
No special situation
Meets my dog
[ ] absolutely not true
after this signal the dog has done his business
Wake-up situation: the dog woke up after a nap, maybe yawned extensively and then came out of his basket
Hits my dog
[ ] absolutely not
from this situation the dog did his business
Food situation: the dog has taken its food
Applies to my dog
[ ] absolutely not
from this situation the dog has done its business
Please note: How long after eating did it last?
Drinking situation: the dog has taken his drinking water
Applies to my dog
[ ] absolutely not
out of this situation the dog did his business
Please note: How long after drinking did it last?
Play situation: the dog has played extensively
Meets my dog
[ ] absolutely not true
out of this situation the dog did his business
Please note: How long after playing did it take?
Time overrun: the dog was not walked, although it was anatomically and age-wise no longer able to be walked. He just let it out.
Applies on me
[ ] absolutely not to
Please make a note in the form of a tally sheet. For each time a dash:
_ _ _ _ _ times
This mishap is on your account. It is not the dog’s fault. Nevertheless it means a step backwards on the way to housetraining.
Disregarding the signals sent by the dog: the dog was simply not observed at the decisive moment. You were distracted, didn’t pick up his signal and left him alone with his problem. He solved it in his own way
Meets on me
[ ] absolutely not to
Please note in the form of a tally sheet. For each time a stroke:
_ _ _ _ times
This mishap is on her account. It is not the dog’s fault. Nevertheless, it means a step backwards on the way to housetraining.
Disregarding the typical situations for dogs especially puppies (s.o. in this table u.a. Waking up, after eating, playing extensively, etc.). These situations were simply not observed and the dog was left alone with his problem. He could not help it.
Meets on me
[ ] absolutely not
Please make a note in the form of a tally sheet. For each time a dash:
_ _ _ _ _ times
This mishap is on their account. The dog cannot do anything for it. Nevertheless it means a step backwards on the way to housetraining.
General ignorance of the signals of the own dog. Each dog owner must have accurately recorded the behavior of his dog individually (s.o. in this table). This did not happen. The dog was not sufficiently observed and understood. His signals go unrecognized to nowhere.
Meets on me
[ ] absolutely not to
Please note in the form of a tally sheet. For each time a dash:
_ _ _ _ _ times
If you have even one line here, you should stop this checklist at this point and start the document all over again.
F. TIPS AND TRICKS
Sometimes it is helpful to fall back on tips and tricks, and the experiences of others. We don’t all have to make the same mistakes again.
- Here is a collection of tricks and tips for housetraining. As a last resort, they are definitely worth a try. But remember: Never scold and never use any form of violence!
- A trick for adult dogs, z.B. from the animal protection: the walk bell. Just before you leave the apartment with your dog, pull a strong cord on the door of the apartment, a bell is attached to the cord. This cord goes down to dog height. Now you show the cord to the dog every time, pull it well visible for him on his height. Then it’s straight out of the apartment: walk it. If you do this consistently, the dog will associate after some: bell equal to walk. Sometime – our dogs are often much more intelligent than we think – sometimes more intelligent than we are – in that they make us believe – we are more intelligent than they are . At some point the dog will pull on it himself. Then it is: Immediately out!
- Are you really ready to deal with the issue of housetraining for a possibly very long time?
- If not – you should urgently check again – if now is the right time for you to get a dog
Watch your dog very closely! Pay attention to his signals – his short glance to the door, restless snuffling, walking around. And take a look at your own nose – before you get angry. Because: Every dog does something – before he does something. You have overlooked it. Why?
G. HOUSETRAINING IN DOGS – CHECKLIST OF THE MOST COMMON PROBLEMS
- If it does not want to work with the housetraining, this can have very many causes
- Always keep in mind: The most common cause is us dog owners ourselves!
It could be a bladder infection, sphincter weakness or other disease underlying
have the dog medically treated
continue house training even during the treatment, otherwise the dog would learn wrong things
It is normal for puppies not to be housebroken until about 16 weeks of age.The dog must be able to control the bladder and the bowels during the first week. With some it succeeds earlier, with some later.
Continue with housetraining consistently with a lot of patience.
the dog is actually housebroken, but considers the ‘farther’ basement, staircase, etc. already as his walk zone
Systematically expand the dog’s stay area and familiarize him with these areas of the house. Z.B. play there with him, times its dog box and/or. Place a basket, feed him there, cuddle with him here
the dog has probably learned: whenever I have done my business outside – it goes straight back to the boring home. So I don’t do my business for ages and stay outside as long as I want – as long as I want to. At home it presses then . and the mishap is there again.
when the dog has been walked outside – for quite a while (min. 5 minutes) stay further outside, so that the negative association "done business – have to go home" is not formed can not impose
wrongly learned behavior by the link: "whenever I have done my business – I am punished for it and have to go home in a hurry"
In shelter dogs, lack of housetraining may have been the reason for surrender – without this being stated by the previous owners.
the dog may have experienced a lot – possibly even bad punishments. Therefore go through the training checklist from above with even greater patience. Please do not return the dog for this reason. You and your dog have a real chance! Be patient.
The dog may have been an apartment dog but never learned housetraining or even learned it incorrectly due to error training.
We need to ask ourselves what might distract, disturb or irritate him? Praise him too early? Tug on the leash? If we make any negative statement?
If the dog has started his business, you should not go a step further, the leash must now be completely loose without any tension. At no time press the dog in any form. Do not praise effusively and give treats until he has really done everything.
Praise too early can also irritate the dog.
The dog is most likely afraid of punishment. He is insecure and has learned in the process: I do something bad and will be punished if I am caught doing it. So I have to do it secretly.
The dog must learn that one makes outside. So you have to take the dog out regularly. He must be able to adjust to it. Ignore the mishap when it happens! This is absolutely true for everyone in her family.
Secretly ‘doing business’ in the apartment is a typical sign of error-learned behavior. The dog has not learned that you have to do it outside – he has learned that you have to do it secretly. Take a look at your own nose!
In the case of puppies, this is a gesture of appeasement, intended to appease the older animals and, in this case, the visitors. So our Pinkler wants to inhibit aggression against himself. The behavior should lose itself with time.
When guests come, it is best not to greet the dog, nor pat it, nor feel sorry for it, nor do anything else. If he pees clean away without comment and in no case scold – otherwise the behavior is reinforced. But also good coaxing and comforting makes this fear worse. The problem can be solved temporarily by greeting the visitor outside the house, perhaps in the garden, porch or entrance area. It should be carefully observed what kind of behavior of the guests triggers the reaction. For example, directly addressing, looking at, leaning down, etc.
If an old animal shows this behavior, the problem should ideally be investigated by an animal psychologist on site. The causes and interactions can be too complex to be treated here seriously – without observation of the special individual case. Please contact an animal psychologist you trust.
H. FURTHER HINTS
I. ALL THE BEST FOR YOUR DOG


If you read this page in an acute problem situation,
we wish you that your dog, you and your family get through this time quickly and well. We are sure – because it has already worked a million times – your dog will also soon be housebroken.
We wish
All good!
***Fest thumbs down. ***
***Thumbs down. ***
***Super very firmly-the-thumbs-pressing. ***