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New in the old town of Nuremberg
Former SoSein team opens new restaurant
Andrea Munkert
Ever tried Tagetes? The orange flower currently gets in the new restaurant "etz" by star chef Felix Schneider in Nuremberg make their grand appearance on the plate. Seasonal cuisine is important to the team – and now the student flower is in the prime of its life. © Uwe Spitzmuller, HighFoodality.de
Nuremberg – You could call them "The taste researchers" call, those that try to find the essence, its essence, to crystallize, to bind. Bringing the character of a product in all its glory to the plate. What the star team around Felix Schneider has to offer in its brand-new restaurant "etz"? in Nuremberg’s city center in the open kitchen is surprising, thoughtful and convincing.
It was announced as a "small rehearsal dinner", but on this Saturday evening, this meal will turn into trips to green meadows, fresh streams, orchards and a world of essences. The essence of a food product – that’s what the Sternekuche team led by Felix Schneider (formerly at the SoSein in Heroldsberg) is searching, inventing, sensing.
What follows is a ride through 18 extremely creative and technically thought-out courses, plates with seemingly only blob-sized portions. In the mouth we discover a whole cosmos every time. Thoughtful and coherent small universes. To start, comes "Tomato and the scent of the garden" – A corner of a tomato buck (similar to a steer heart) in green dancing on clear broth. A decoction that echoes the taste of the tomato in liquid, clear form. Unobtrusive, harmonizing.
Tuftel-Team: Felix Schneider (li.) and two-thirds of his kitchen team. © Uwe Spitzmuller, HighFoodality.de
regional, seasonal, down to earth
Schneider, who on his Insta profile gives the local and rare mushrooms their grand entrance, looks like an always fascinated researcher. He and the young team think regionally and seasonally – that’s reflected in all the ingredients and the dishes as a whole. "We divide our year into seven seasons of growth", so Schneider. The cuisine is deeply rooted in the region. It is based on the products that grow and are created here – in the respective season. "Many of them we process daily fresh and therefore also strongly dependent on the weather conditions." Other products, such as fermented garlic or the mixed pickles that accompany the snack, mature months or years. "We accompany each element on the plate from the field to the moment it is in front of them", Schneider says.
The snack with three kinds of bacon, homemade spelt bread and homemade butter and mixed pickles is a classic of the team. © Uwe Spitzmuller, HighFoodality.de
The spelt bread, which flanks several courses this Saturday, comes from their own manufacture, as does u.a. the milk, which draws the flower-covered, cheerful langos with lactic flavor in a different light. The char of the butter-tender nigiri (Schneider learned the special sushi-cutting techniques in Japan) comes from Erlangen – the "wasabi is domestic horseradish dyed green with grass and tastes like fresh meadow. In addition, goldenlein grains, which puff delicately in the mouth, and sour-sweet, young ginger.
Chicken and hay: The chicken had a nice life on a meadow orchard in the region. Regionality is an important theme of the etz cuisine – as well as seasonality. © Uwe Spitzmuller, HighFoodality.de
Even the "six-month chicken" in the dish "chicken and hay comes from "a happy animal from the region", who was allowed to spend his days in a meadow orchard. It celebrates a reunion with a cherry that also grew in this meadow orchard, now filled with a blob of marzipan and like the chicken in hay butter, tastes of sun happiness.
To kneel down: The "Stuttgart Geisshirtle" dessert with frozen pear pulp in pear brandy. © Andrea Munkert
But our absolute tip is the dessert "Stuttgart Geisshirtle", in which the pear is allowed to unfold its flavorful splendor like a fan: half a pear comes on ice and carries frozen, finest pear pulp inside, which makes friends with home-distilled pear brandy. Or the excursion to the taste of the orange flower Tagetes, which is used in the dessert "All Colors" iced, liquid and in flower form in front of the guest and with on Cassis marrow and sheep’s milk basis fruity, tart and somehow colorful surprises.
These are our star chefs
The concept of the restaurant is open, clear and distinct. The open kitchen makes the evening a kind of happening. Guests can watch this clockwork of a team dissect, tinker, work, pick apart, assemble, capture diversity on a plate the entire time. The store’s concept is an open one, a clean one, sober but woodsy and earthy – thanks to the large monsteras and other green plants. Completely a trip into nature, its beauty and diversity, this evening.
Schlachtschussel is the name of this dish: Beet meets potato and grated fermented pork liver. © Uwe Spitzmuller, HighFoodality.de
Felix Schneider and his team have so far been in the SoSein in Heroldsberg, where they have earned Guide Michelin stars and many other awards. In March, owner Jens Brockerhof and Schneider announced their intention to go their separate ways. Now they’re getting in touch with the "etz" in the Bindergass counter, Bindergasse 22, back. "There will be twelve to 16 dishes on the menu, a menu, With the option of vegetarian alternatives on certain dishes.", says Schneider. An informative and thoughtful wine pairing is possible. An evening per person with twelve to 16 dishes costs 210 euros per person.
Star chef Felix Schneider is a researcher, almost a kind of food psychologist, who is on the prowl for the essence of the products. © Andrea Munkert
Cooking will be the team of the "etz always thursdays to saturdays from 18.30 o’clock. Guests should spend open, casual evenings there – registration is necessary.
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